Convertible Top Frame Repair Verdeckgestell Reparatur
#1
Thirty some years ago I put a German Haartz Sonneland canvas top on my 66 roadster. I was tired of the cheap vinyl tops of the time, and as I drove my car all the time, I wanted a top that would look good and last.

30 years later and 150,000 plus miles, it was time for a new top. I have some pictures to share with you of what I found under my old top.

I knew that one of the rivets on the frame was not working as the weatherstrip on the drivers side would not line up, leaving a gap between the window and the two window weatherstrips that bolt on.

First I must say that the material used (tackboard) 45 years ago is far superior to the "fiberboard" sold now. The original board was fiber board sewn between two leather strips.

I found some rust that I have to deal with . The problem that many face with their tops is the nylon bushing that centers the rivets. When it breaks, the top mechanism does not work correctly and you will have uneven weatherstrip problems.

It usually is not the rivet as I found out, but the bushing.

Next, you can order the rivets from most vendors, but none listed the nylon bushing. Without it , you will not be able to fix the problem and be able to set the rivet.

Jerry Sullivan of "Sully's Tops" http://www.SullysTops.com 1-800-451-3998 Fresno, CA

Gave me a call and he has the bushings. He actually manufacturers the rivets for the vendors who sell them. Funny they don't list them.

He put them in the mail and said, " send me the check when you get them" Very nice man and I would use him for any parts that may be needed to restore the top frame. He is a 17 year NCRS member



Setting the rivet. You need to clamp the rivet, and frame tight, block the rivet and smack the end of the rivet with the hole with a big hammer. Flatten it a bit and pine it over.

I will let you know how that works, I ordered extra rivets just in-case

32 year old top

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Bottom , top , sides , rivet hole , rust areas , straps , fiber tack strip of frame

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Original tack strip

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Rivet and nylon bushing

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Weatherstrip kit and padding to be put on after canvas is installed

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I am having the top installed after seeing the way the tacks have to be driven. Speedy did it 30 years ago for me and he will do it again on the 12th.

I hope the frame comes out OK, I am doing the work and I am always leery of my work.

I will post some more pictures as I get to work

Just finished up the frame this afternoon. I drive the car to the installer tomorrow. Weather is going to be cold but dry.

As show in pictures, my frame needed two nylon bushings replaced. The hard part is the setting of the rivets. You can order the rivets from the usual vendors, but it is not the rivet that goes, it is the bushing. You need a special setting tool and the ability to block the rivet. Palmers Springs Shop, making springs and carriages since 1860's had a 70 year old part worker who could set it for me.
A large hammer and anvil helped.

Sully's Tops in Fresno CA was the only place I could find to get the bushings. Jerry makes the rivets for vendors.

Rivet and bushings

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Before

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After

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Sandblasting rust

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Old frame

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Restored frame on car ready to top installation

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Aussi-66;1579524466 schrieb:Jack thanks for the information and the photos they have been very helpfull. I have just rebuilt the frame on my 66 and wonder if there is a good write up on getting the frame aligned prior to putting the new top on. :cheers:

Hi,

What I did was to put all the trim pieces back on before I dropped the car off.

I put the frame back on the car, and did a general setting of the pins, frame bolts and latches.

The top must go on the frame and the alignment is done as you go . That is where experience comes into play. How to set the front folds, the back straps , all must be pushed and pulled, tacks set into the tack board, (don't use the fiber board, just makes rust) use the replacement vinyl tack strip, and at the same time , working the frame bolts , front, up, down or side ways.

Also the back pins can be adjusted to go directly into the deck latch hole. The front latches also. I have a third latch in the middle that completely eliminates any leaks in the mid front bow area. All corvettes 68 and on had the third latch. I have a post on it and many who have done the latch report back , that after years and years of dripps, gone..........

GM just did not want to spend the money at the time to fix the problem.

Jack

[Bild: ThirdLatchfortop013.jpg]

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So, I would not spend a lot of time on alignment, before the actual installation of the top.

Waiting no longer, I dial the number. Speed's helper answered the phone.

" Hello , Hello, " I said, " is Speed in ?"

helper on other end of line

" Speed are you in ? "

background voice " Yea "

I tell the helper who I am and ask him if my car is done .

helper on end of line " Speed, guy with corvette, wants to know if the car is done " " what should I tell him ? "

voice in background " Its done " " has been done for two days"

You can imagine my thoughts as I listen to this conversation......

So, the car is done, it was done, no call, I did not call and......

There is ice on the roads. Nice and sunny for the last few days ......

I asked him what time they close and told them I would be over to get the car.

If I don't crash going over to Speeds in my winter car, and If I don't crash driving the corvette home....

You will see pictures..........I hope

I just got to Speeds, car off the road, sirens blaring, but did that stop me.......No

Meet Speed

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Car ride home

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Home at last in garage

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Third Latch for no leaks in rain at 100 mph

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Top looks great, sounds great inside, looks great inside.

Worth the wait. Any good Staysoft top will be so much better than vinyl, if you are looking for a rich soft look as well as durability

Jack

Tomorrow pictures of top on car
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#2
Thanks for sharing your experience. I am giving it some deep thoughts to use haartz double duck on my C1. The plastic isn't really rockin...

Did you bead blast or sand?
6TVette Patriot

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#3
Zitat:Original von 6TVette
Thanks for sharing your experience. I am giving it some deep thoughts to use haartz double duck on my C1. The plastic isn't really rockin...

Did you bead blast or sand?

I used a black material.....not sand...could have been bead material...just bought a bag of it at rental place....

Just used to get rust off metal....then prime and paint with semi or gloss black

You well really like the soft top material...much better looking and lasts much longer........it was good on my car for more then 30 years.... I replaced the plastic window twice....

Jack
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